Paradies im Regen


Heute waren wir auf einer Insel. Das verlief ein bisschen chaotischer als geplant, zuerst stand eine zweitägige Stadtflucht mit Zelten am Strand auf dem Plan, dann wurde daraus ein Tagestrip und als wir dann an der Fähre sind, stelle ich fest, dass die Fährenzeiten uns nur fünf Stunden auf einer der drei geplanten Inseln gab, denn es ist weder Wochenende, noch Feiertag.

Die Fähre macht eine Rundfahrt. Von Marina South Pier fährt sie zum St. Johns Island, wo wir aussteigen, von dort aus zum Kusu Island, wo wir nicht aussteigen und dann wieder zurück. Außer uns sind noch vier andere Leute an Board.

St. John’s ist eine Insel, die im späten neunzehnten Jahrhundert als Quarantänestation für Choleraerkrankte und andere Schwerkranke verwendet wurde. Man kann dort zelten und Bungalows mieten und sie ist das Zuhause von vielen Katzen, die wie alle Katzen hier eingeknickte Schwänze, eine verlorene Ohrspitze haben und sehr gern gestreichelt werden. Außerdem führt eine schmale Straße hinüber zur anderen Insel, Lazarus Island, die in so manchem Blog als Geheimtipp für den schönsten Strand in der Nähe von Singapur gehandelt wird. Er besteht aus einer halbrunden Bucht mit weichem Sand und grünblauem Wasser. Der Klang der Wellen hat sofort eine tiefenberuhigende Wirkung auf mich und ich fühle mich meinem Inner Peace nahe, wie so oft, wenn ich am Meer bin.

Wir sind so gut wie allein auf der Insel, bis auf ein paar Gärtner, die in ihren Golfwägelchen die Inselstraßen abfahren, Pflanzen im Gepäck und dem obligatorischen Partyboot, das die vollkommene Ruhe in der bezaubernden Bucht ein wenig zerbricht. Die Insel selbst ist gepflegt, wie die Erweiterung einer menschenleeren Parkanlage eines Ferienortes, die teils in Dschungel und Mangrovendickicht übergeht und natürlich mit allgegenwärtigen Palmen. Nur die angeschwemmten Plastikflaschen verzerren das Idyll an manchen Stellen der Bucht.

Doch selbst hier entkommen wir nicht dem allgegenwärtigen Haze, der Himmel bleibt grau verhangen und die Sonne kommt uns nach wie vor nicht zu Gesicht. Nachdem wir die Bucht abgelaufen sind, beginnt es zu regnen.  Doch der Regen ist warm und wir finden Zuflucht in einem der vielen Strandhäuschen, die ein Dach und zwei Bänke bieten, auf denen wir friedlich unseren Bananenkuchen verspeisen.

Um dem kleinen Partyboot zu entkommen, wandern wir weiter und finden ein kleines Stück halbverwachsenen Strand, von dem aus man zu Kusu Island hinüberblicken kann, das die Heimat eines kleinen chinesischen Tempels ist. Ich frage mich, ob man rüberschwimmen kann. Aber das machen wir nicht. Stattdessen genießen wir die Momente vollkommener Ruhe und Menschenlosigkeit.

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